November 5, 2020 - Santa Fe and Pecos National Historic Park

Lynnette and I had visited Santa Fe back in 2011 and really enjoyed it.  So we had already seen most of the main attractions.  But Lynnette hadn't seen Pecos National Historical Park -- I had -- and I thought she might like it since it also includes some hiking in a scenic place.

Pecos National Historic Park, east of Santa Fe -- encompasses thousands of acres of landscape infused with historical elements from prehistoric archaeological ruins to 19th-century ranches, to a battlefield of the American Civil War. Its largest single feature is Pecos Pueblo also known as Cicuye Pueblo, a Native American community abandoned in historic times. First a state monument in 1935, it was made Pecos National Monument in 1965, and greatly enlarged and renamed in 1990. Two sites within the park, the Pueblo and the Glorieta Pass Battlefield, are National Historic Landmarks.

 

   

Surprisingly, the Visitor's Center was open and it had a small, but excellent museum which gave the fascinating history of the area.  Native Americans, Spanish, Mexicans and Americans all lived and/or came through here.

The Pecos Pueblo thrived around 1450 AD.

   
What the pueblo looked like back in the day.  At its peak, the Pueblo IV Era Pecos village housed more than 2,000 people in its five-storied complex.
   
Spanish Conquistador Francisco Vásquez de Coronado came through here in 1541, only 49 years after Columbus discovered the new world.  Several Spanish expeditions followed and eventually the Spanish came to stay.
   
 
   
P15
   
Historical painting of the Palace of the Governors when Mexico was running the show.
   
Pecos was on the Santa Fe trail.  This painting shows a Santa Fe wagon train camping near the big church at Pecos.
 
"I have visited this morning the ruins of an ancient pueblo, or village, now desolate and a home for the wild beast and bird of the forest.  It created sad thoughts when I found myself almost heedlessly over the work of this once mighty people.  There perhaps was pride, power and wealth, carried to its upper limit."   ... Susan Shelby Magoffin, August 29, 1846.
 
By 1838 the Pecos site was abandoned by the Pecos Pueblo people.
   
Artists conception of the huge pueblos at Pecos at its peak.
   
This is all that is left of the big pueblos.
   
A close-up of some of the rooms.
   
Lynnette checks out a big ceremonial kiva.
   
The Spanish established a mission and then churches here.
   

The first church at the Pecos Pueblo was probably built by the Franciscan Fray Pedro Zambrano Ortiz by 1619.  In 1625, a more permanent church was constructed outside the walls of the pueblo of Pecos, New Mexico. The church building was destroyed in the Pueblo Revolt of 1680, wherein the Spanish were ejected from New Mexico. After the Spanish reconquest in 1693, a smaller church was built in 1717. The walls of this later church still stand on top of the earlier church's stone foundation.

This is what's left of the 1717 church.

   
Inside the church ruins, cross-beam remnants for an upstairs.
   
Looking at the church from the other side.
   
Ruins of the bigger 1625 church.
   
 
   
 
   
Pretty country.  Rattlesnake warning signs were posted but we never saw any.
   
Leaving Pecos Pueblo, Lynnette and I drive five miles or so to the Glorieta Pass Battlefield.   We hiked the loop trail through the battlefield area.

"Less than twelve months after the start of the Civil War, the Confederate Government took a bold step.  Troops from Texas invaded the Territory of New Mexico.  They wanted to capture silver and gold mines and recruit more troops in Colorado and Utah.  Then a larger rebel force would march west to seize the ocean ports in California. "

The Confederate forces won a battle at Valverde, south of Albuquerque, and then occupied Albuquerque and Santa Fe.  Short on supplies, they headed east towards Fort Union but ran into Union forces in Glorietta Pass.  During the fighting at Glorietta Pass, the Union split their forces and sent 500 troops around the Confederate flank.   By chance, the union forces discovered the main Conferederate supply base near Apache Canyon and destroyed all the Confederate supplies, wagons, horses and mules.  Despite winning the battle in the Pass, without supplies the Confederates had no choice but to retreat back to Texas.

   
Other than reading the placards, there wasn't too much to see on the loop trail, but it was a nice hike.
   
Back in Santa Fe, we walked up and down Canyon Road -- famous for art galleries, boutiques and restaurants.  We hadn't done this on our previous visit.  We enjoyed looking at all the art displayed outside galleries.  We had a very nice lunch at the Caffe Grecco, right on Canyon Road, dining outside listening to live jazz entertainment and chatting with the friendly and interesting owner. 
   
Lynnette standing in front of the famous Palace of the Governors.  It served as the seat of government for the state of New Mexico for centuries. The Palace of the Governors is the oldest continuously occupied public building in the United States.  We had toured it before back in June 2011.  But it is currently closed for renovations.
 
Notice the police cars to the right.  There was a standing police presence in the Santa Fe plaza.
   
Hanging out in the Santa Fe Plaza in late afternoon.
   
This was in the center of the Plaza.  I vaguely remembered something had been in the middle of the plaza but I couldn't remember what.  I thought maybe they were renovating a statue or something?
 
Later I found out that less than a month ago, on October 12, protesters out for Indigenous Peoples Day  -- or maybe some folks just out for a good time -- toppled the Soldier's Monument that had stood here for more than 150 years.   Story
 
The monument had been erected in 1866 to honor Civil War-era soldiers who died in battle.  It had been criticized for being oppressive to Native Americans. Earlier this year, the Santa Fe mayor had ordered the obelisk removed, but it was too heavy, so only the plaque was removed.  Apparently that wasn't good enough.
 
   

Written on the four sides of the cardinal directions of the plinth:

TO THE HEROES OF THE FEDERAL ARMY WHO FELL AT THE BATTLE OF VALVERDE, FOUGHT WITH THE REBELS FEBUARY 21, 1862

TO THE HEROES WHO HAVE FALLEN IN THE VARIOUS BATTLES WITH SAVAGE INDIANS IN THE TERRITORY OF NEW MEXICO (the word SAVAGE was chiseled off in 1974)

TO THE HEROES OF THE FEDERAL ARMY WHO FELL AT THE BATTLES OF CANON DEL APACHE AND PIGEON'S RANCH (LA GLORIETA) FOUGHT WITH THE REBELS MARCH 28, 1863 AND TO THOSE WHO FELL AT THE BATTLE FOUGHT WITH THE REBELS AT PERALTA APRIL 15, 1862.

ERECTED BY THE PEOPLE OF NEW MEXICO THROUGH THEIR LEGISLATURES OF 1866 - 7 - 8. MAY THE UNION BE PERPETUAL.

as transcribed from the monument, January 2018

Well, if you've never seen it, you missed your chance.  This is what it looked like before it was vandalized, in better, non-Orwellian times.

   
Flashback!  Lynnette in front of the Soldiers Monument back in June 2011.
   
Some artwork in our hotel, the Drury Plaza, which was one of the best places we stayed in the entire trip.
   
More art work at the hotel.
   
 
   
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